ÞAR LYFTIST LAND – Heimsókn í Arnanes, Kelduhverfi

Skrifað um September 8, 2014 · in Gróður · 1,529 Comments

Fyrir fáum dögum gekk eg með Birni Gunnarssyni um land Arnaness, nyrzta býlinu á Vestursandi í Kelduhverfi. Björn fæddist þar 1934 og dvaldi heima fram undir tvítugt. Í ungdæmi hans var rekinn hefðbundinn búskapur á jörðinni, en að auki stundaði faðir hans veiðar. Búskapur lagðist þar af um 1960, en jörðin var áfram nýtt til beitar. Hin síðari ár hafa nokkur hross verið þar höfð í girðingu.

 

Land hefur hækkað um tvo metra

Fyrr á öldum flæmdist Jökulsá á Fjöllum um þetta mikla sléttlendi sem Vestursandur er, og má sjá gamla farvegi hennar vítt og breitt um sandinn. Umhverfis bæinn var víðlent mýrlendi og víða djúpir álar. Þess á milli voru sendnir bakkar með víðiklóm og harðbalategundum. Miklar engjar tilheyrðu jörðinni og fengu flestir bæir í ofanverðum Kelduneshreppi slægjulönd þar.

 

Ótrúlega miklar breytingar hafa orðið þar á landi frá því Björn var heima í Arnanesi. Skammt norðan við bæinn var djúpur áll, svo nefndur Yzti-kíll, sýnilega gamall farvegur Jöklu. Úti í honum var grösugur hólmi; (mynd 1). Ein kýrin á bænum hafði það að vana að synda út í hólmann hvern morgun og halda sig þar liðlangan daginn. Þegar kýrin synti til og frá hólmanum stóðu aðeins granir og bísperrtur halinn upp úr vatninu. Nú má ganga þangað þurrum fótum.

 

Horft yfir Yzta-kíl. Til hægri á myndinni er hóllinn, sem myndaði hólma í kílnum. Ljósm. ÁHB.

Mynd 1. Horft yfir Yzta-kíl. Til hægri á myndinni er hóllinn, sem myndaði hólma í kílnum. Ljósm. ÁHB.

Yzti-kíll náði nokkur hundruð metra í austur. Á dögum Björns heima í Arnanesi var oft síðla sumars lagzt til sunds í kílnum og synt dágóðan spöl upp eftir honum. Nú er sums staðar aðeins væta í rót og vex þar helzt mýrastör (Carex nigra), að öðru leyti er hann þurr; (mynd 2).

 

Fyrrum var hér djúpur kíll, sem menn syntu gjarnan í síðla sumars. Ljósm. ÁHB.

Mynd 2. Fyrrum var hér djúpur kíll, sem menn syntu gjarnan í síðla sumars. Ljósm. ÁHB.

Þar sem áður voru víðlendar engjar er nú kominn jaðargróður, einkum vaxinn hrossanál (Juncus arcticus Willd. ssp. intermedius Hyl.) og víðitegundum (Salix spp.). Engjalöndin eru að mestu leyti horfin.

 

Bakkarnir voru nýttir til beitar eða slegnir og fékkst þar laufhey annað hvert ár.

 

Samkvæmt þessari frásögn Björns Gunnarssonar hefur land hækkað í Arnanesi frá um 1944 um eina tvo metra. Vitað er, að frá umbrotunum, sem hófust 1975, hefur land risið þar um eina 30 cm frá 1978 (Oddur Sigurðsson, munnl. heimild). Þetta eru því ekki litlar breytingar, sem hafa átt sér þarna stað að líkindum á árunum 19754 til 1978.

 

 

Trjáreitur

Að tilhlutan móður Björns, Sigurveigar Björnsdóttur (1908–1946) var afgirt nokkuð stórt svæði austan við íbúðarhúsið í Arnanesi um 1943; (mynd 3). Við friðun hefur hlaupið vöxtur í gulvíði (Salix phylicifolia) og loðvíði (S. lanata). Um svipað leyti plantaði Björn þar nokkrum tegundum, furu, greni, reynivið og birki. Merkilegt var að sjá, að nokkrar plöntur hafa þraukað allan tímann, þó að þær séu ekki háar í loftinu eftir sjötíu ár. Við sáum þarna fjóra reyniviðarrunna, rúmlega tveggja metra háa, fáeinar birkihríslur, álíka háar, og eina furu um 1,20 m á hæð; (mynd 4). Má þó vera, að eitthvað fleira leynist þarna, því að við leituðum ekki vandlega. – Það er ljóst, að trjágróður þarna á í vök að verjast.

 

Mynd 3. Nokkuð stór reitur var afgirtur 1943 og þá hljóp vöxtur í víðitegundir. Ljósm. ÁHB.

Mynd 3. Nokkuð stór reitur var afgirtur 1943 og þá hljóp vöxtur í víðitegundir. Ljósm. ÁHB.


Mynd 4. Reyniviðarrunnur, sem Björn plantaði 1944. Lengst til hægri á myndinni sést í furu. Ljósm. ÁHB.

Mynd 4. Reyniviðarrunnur, sem Björn plantaði 1944. Lengst til hægri á myndinni sést í furutopp. Ljósm. ÁHB.

 

Sáðslétta

Björn Gunnarsson greindi frá því, að skömmu eftir 1930 hafi maður nokkur að nafni Steingrímur Sigurðsson komið frá Kanada og gert þarna í landi Arnaness sáðsléttu. Tæki og tól til þeirra hluta hafði hann með sér frá Kanada og sáðkorn einnig, sennilegast háliðagras. Villiplöntur hafa nú lagt þessa sáðsléttu undir sig, nema á stöku stað vex þarna húsapuntur (Elytrigia repens) og vallarfoxgras (Phleum pratense); (mynd 5).

 

Mynd 5. Hér var gerð sáðslétta skömmu eftir 1930. Sáðkorn kom frá Kanada. Húsapuntur og vallafoxgras vaxa þar innan um villiplöntur. Ljósm. ÁHB

Mynd 5. Hér var gerð sáðslétta skömmu eftir 1930. Sáðkorn kom frá Kanada. Húsapuntur og vallafoxgras vaxa þar innan um villiplöntur. Ljósm. ÁHB

 

Í Arnanesi stendur stórt og veglegt íbúðarhús, sem á sér merka sögu, sem verður ekki rakin hér. Bróðir Björns, Jón Gunnarsson á nú jörðina og hefur gert húsið upp, svo að sómi er að; (mynd 6).

 

Mynd 6. Húsið í Arnanesi er um margt sérstætt. Það er byggt úr vikursteypu. Ljósm. ÁHB.

Mynd 6. Húsið í Arnanesi er um margt sérstætt. Það er byggt úr vikursteypu. Ljósm. ÁHB.

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