Ágúst H. Bjarnason, prófessor (1875-1952).
Ágúst H. Bjarnason prófessor:
KLÆÐIÐ LANDIÐ
Ræða flutt á Ungmennafélagsmóti í Þrastarskógi hinn 8. ágúst 1926.
Kæru Ungmennafélagar!
Nú fyrir rúmum mánuði fór ég stutta landferð með syni mínum, sem þá var nýorðinn stúdent. Tilgangurinn með ferðinni var sá að sýna honum þau ríki þessa lands, sem hann hafði ekki áður séð, fagrar sveitir eins og Fljótshlíðina og bygðina undir Eyjafjöllum, eyðisanda eins og Sólheimasand og Mýrdalssand og landið í óbygðunum, í Þórsmörk og víðar. En í Þrastarskóg komum við ekki þá. Hann og Öndverðanesskóg höfðum við áður séð. Aðalerindið var þó að sjá sandana og svo skógarleifarnar á leið okkar.
Stórhrikalegt og fagurt er þetta land, stórhrikalegt í óbygðum, þar sem jöklarnir og þó einkum skriðjöklarnir eru að mala björgin mjölinu smærra, en jökulárnar bera fram eðjuna til þess að byggja nýtt land og brjóta þá jafnframt sumsstaðar land, sem þegar er bygt; en fegurð í frjóum sveitum eins og í Fljótshlíðinni, þótt þar séu nú mikil spell orðin, og undir Fjöllunum, þar sem fjöllin eru sumsstaðar gróin svo að segja upp í eggjar. En lítið gætir skógarins á þessari leið, nema þá helst inni í óbygðum og á hann þó ásamt lynginu einna helst að varna því, að landið blási upp, eins og það þó víða hefir gjört alt frá landnámstíð. En um skóginn ætla ég að tala, einkum þar sem ég nú er staddur í Þrastarskógi.
Í Íslendingabók Ara fróða segir, að í þann tíð, er Ingólfur kom út hingað, var Ísland viði vaxið á milli fjalls og fjöru. Og Þorvaldur Thoroddsen getur þess til í Íslands-lýsingu sinni, að 1/30 hluti alls landsins eða um 3600 ferkílómetrar hafi þá verið skógi vaxinn.
Nú er alt skóglendi Íslands 60 þúsund hektarar (600 ferkm) eða um 12 fermílur alls (aðeins 1/6 þess, sem það áður var) og er það mestmegnis kjarrskógur og kræklur einar.
Þegar menn ferðast um landið, má sjá, hve skóglendið og lyngbrekkurnar hafa víða eyðst og landið blásið upp sem afleiðing af því, eyðisandar myndast, örfoka holt og urðir. En orðið „holt“ (þ. Holz) þýðir, að þar hafi áður verið skógur.
Á öll þessi eyðilegu holt og mela, er mæta auganu hvarvetna hér á landi, ber að líta ýmist sem stormrofin flög af hálfu náttúrunnar eða sem áverka, er menn og skepnur hafa veitt brjóstum fósturjarðarinnar, og er það þá oftast nær svo, að áverkinn hefir komið fyrst, en síðan hefir náttúran tekið við og gert hann að svöðusári eða jafnvel að holundarsári.
Landið var fagurt og frítt
og fannhvítir jöklanna tindar
En nú er það rúið og reitt og raunalega sár hafa myndast. Og því var það, að Bólu-Hjálmar gat kveðið svo á þjóðhátíðinni 1874:
Sjá nú, hvað ég er beinaber,
brjóstin visin og fölar kinnar;
eldsteyptu lýsa hraunin hér
hörðum búsifjum ævi minnar;
kóróna mín er kaldur snjár,
klömbrur hafísa mitt aðsetur;
þrautir mínar í þúsund ár
þekkir guð einn og talið getur.
Það er sýnilegt á þessari lýsingu, að Hjálmar kennir náttúrunni aðallega um skemdir þær, er orðið hafa á landinu og er síst fyrir það að synja, að hún hefir víðast hvar átt drýgstan þátt í þeim stærstu spellvirkjum, er orðið hafa á landinu. Ekki er heldur fyrir það að synja, að skóginn hafi bæði kalið á hörðum árum og að beinvaxin skógartré hafi orðið að kræklum í hríðum og hvassviðrum. En eyðing skóganna mun þó öllu meir mönnum og skepnum að kenna. Það er sennilega eldiviðarleysið í landinu og svo ágangur sauðfjár, sem hefir átt drýgstan þátt í þessu. Fyrst var hrísið rifið, síðan lyngið og síðast mosinn, þangað til komið var ofan í bera klöppina, en þá tók það sem eftir var að blása upp og svo var gróðurklæðunum flett ofan af landinu. Og á meðan menn dengdu ljái sína við viðarkol, var skógunum víða gjöreytt.
Eg hefi nú farið víða um land, og þó ég beri ekkert sérstakt skyn á þetta mál, þá sér þess víða glögg merki, að skógurinn hefir einna helst þrifist og haldist við þar, sem hvorki menn né skepnur hafa til hans náð. Nýlega var ég staddur við Skógafoss; þar sáust aðeins leifar á hólma einum í ánni uppi yfir fossinum, ey, sem nauðulega verður komist út í. Þið hafið og sjálfsagt öll heyrt getið um reyniviðartréð í Nauthúsagili inn af Stóru-Mörk, eitthvert hæsta tré á landinu. Af hverju hefir það varðveist nema af því, að það er hömrum lukt á alla vegu og hvorki menn né skepnur hafa til þess náð. Þó hafa nú veðrin stýft af af því efstu lauf …. fyrir nokkrum árum, brotið ein 4 fet ofan af því; en óðum er að vaxa í skarðið og sjálft tréð sjálfsagt ein 30 fet eins og það áður var. En Fagriskógur, sem var þar nokkuð langt innar af á Steinholtsá, rétt hjá skriðjöklinum, er nú gjöreyddur, ekki af jöklinum, heldur af mannavöldum fyrir liðugri öld eða svo, eftir því sem Sæmundur hreppstjóri í Stóru-Mörk hefir tjá mér. Þar er nú ekki annað að sjá en grasi gróna flöt. Aftur hefir víðáttumikill skógur geymst í Þórsmörk, og í honum eru nú bestu þrif eftir að farið var að grisja hann réttilega og girt hefir verið fyrir bæði sjálfa mörkina og Húsadal.
Þannig mætti lengi telja, sem alt bendir til þess, að það hafi frekar verið menn og skepnur en sjálf náttúran, er grandað hafi skógunum, að minnsta kosti hér sunnanlands. Og mun þó sannleikans hér eins og oftar helst að leita miðja vegu.
En – munuð þið nú spyrja – gerir þetta nokkurn skapaðan hlut til. Já, meira en það. Sé landið flett gróðurklæðum sínum, sé mosinn og lyngið rifið og skógurinn kvistaður niður, þá gjörspillir það landinu. Landið verður ekki einungis óhlýrra, ófegurra og óvistlegra, heldur blæs það upp og þar myndast holt, melar og jafnvel eyðisandar, sem áður hefir verið frjótt land og byggilegt. Ég skal aðeins nefna eitt dæmi, sem er bæði átakanlegt og stórhryggilegt. Það sýnir, hve heilar sveitir geta eyðst, ef mosi, lyng og hrís er rifið svo, að landið blæs upp og sandar taka að fjúka.
Eins og þið kannski vitið, hafa sveitirnar vestur og suðvestur af Heklu eyðst af sandfoki og sandarnir á Rangárvöllum myndast af því, að kjarrskógurinn og lyngbreiðurnar í hlíðunum norðaustur af Landi í Landsveit voru gjöreyddar eftir harða veturinn 1835-36 skepnum og fénaði til bjargar. En þá um vorið og um sumarið tók sandurinn þegar að fjúka, og svæði sem nam nokkrum hundruðum kílómetra gjöreyddist af sandfokinu. Mælt er, að 24 býli hafi þá lagst af, og Þorvaldur Thoroddsen tekur enn dýpra í árinni, þar sem hann segir, að hvorki meira né minna en 32 býli hafi eyðst í Landi og á Rangárvöllum og verið að mestu komin í auðn í lok nóvembermánaðar 1836. Skjót var því hefndin fyrir hermdarverkin. Hálfu ári eða svo eftir hrísrifið var Landsveitin orðin að samnefndri Sandsveit og mikið af Rangárvöllunum sömuleiðis (Þorv. Thoroddsen: Árferði á Íslandi, Kh. 1916-17, bls. 235). Fleiri dæmi en þetta þarf naumast að herma sem sönnun fyrir skaðsemi rifsins. En nú sný ég alveg við blaðinu, minnist ekki framar á spellin, heldur hitt, hvað okkur beri að gjöra til þess að búa landið aftur gróðurklæðum sínum, bæta það og fegra. Mun þá best að líta fyrst á náttúrunnar eigið starf, þar sem hún er að byggja upp og hlaða í skörðin.
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Þegar ég var staddur í Nauthúsagili nú fyrir liðlega ári, datt mér í hug snildarlýsing Björnstjerne Björnson á því, hvernig lyngið, einirinn, furan og björkin fóru að klæða fjallið. Mér fanst það svo lifandi lýsing á því, sem bar fyrir augum einmitt þar í gilinu, nema hvað það mun hafa verið lyng, fjalldrapi og birki, sem þar voru að verki. En lýsing Björnsons er á þessa leið:
„-Uppi á milli fjallanna lá djúpt gil og eftir gilinu rann á; hún var vatnsmikil og leið þyngslalega yfir grjótið og urðirnar. Báðumegin var hátt og bratt, og öðru megin öldungis gróðurlaust; en hinumegin í gilinu var skógi vaxið og það svo fast niður að ánni, að hún flóði þar yfir vor og haust. En skógurinn sá aðeins upp í himininn og niður í ána og gat ekkert breiðst út.
-Ættum við ekki að klæða fjallið? – sagði einirinn einu sinni við útlenda eik, sem stóð nær honum en nokkurt annað tré í skóginum. Eikin leit niður fyrir sig til þess að gá að, hver þetta væri; svo leit hún upp aftur, en svaraði engu. Áin ruddist svo fast fram, að öldurnar hvítféllu; norðanstormurinn var kominn inn í gilið og hvein í hamrakleifunum; berir fjalldrangar slúttu fram yfir gilbarmana og stóð af þeim kuldi. – Ættum við ekki að klæða fjallið – sagði einirinn og leit til furutrésins, sem stóð hinu megin við hann. – Eigi það nokkurn tíma að verða gert, þá verðum við að gera það, – sagði furan, strauk kampinn og leit yfir til bjarkarinnar; – hvað sýnist þér? – Björkin leit upp eftir fjallinu; henni fanst hún varla geta dregið andann, svo þyngslalega slútti það fram yfir hana. – Við skulum klæða það í guðs nafni – sagði björkin. Og ekki voru það fleiri en þau þrjú, og þó ásettu þau sér að klæða fjallið. Einirinn gekk á meðan.
Þá er þau komu spölkorn áleiðis, mættu þau lynginu. Einirinn ætlaði að láta sem hann sæi það ekki. – Nei, láttu lyngið koma með – sagði furan. Svo slóst lyngið í förina. En ekki leið á löngu áður (en) fór að hrapa undan eininum. – Haltu í mig – sagði lyngið. Einirinn gerði það, og alstaðar fann lyngið smugu til þess að stinga fingrinum í; en þar sem lyngið hafði fyrst náð fingurfestu, þar náði einirinn handfestu, og þar sem einirinn hafði náð handfestu, náði furan táfestu. Þau klifruðu og klifruðu. Furan stritaðist á eftir, svo björkin.
En þá fór fjallið að hugsa um, hvað það gæti verið, sem væri að smáfikra sig upp eftir því. Og þegar það hafði brotið heilann um þetta í nokkrar aldir, þá sendi það dálítinn læk niður eftir til að gá að þessu. Það var í vorleysingum og lækurinn hoppaði ofan eftir, þangað til hann mætti lynginu. – Góða, góða lyngið mitt, lofaðu mér að halda áfram, ég er svo lítill – sagði lækurinn. Lyngið var í óða önn, létti sér ögn upp og tók svo aftur til óspilltra málanna. Lækurinn smaug undir og hélt svo áfram. Góði, góði einir, lofaðu mér að halda áfram, ég er svo lítill, – sagði lækurinn. Einirinn hvessti á hann augum. En þegar hann heyrði, að lyngið hafði leyft honum að halda áfram, gat hann ekki verið að banna það. Lækurinn smaug undir eininn, hélt svo áfram, þangað til hann kom fram, þar sem furan stóð í brekkunni og blés mæðulega. – Góða, góða fura mín, viltu ekki lofa mér að halda áfram, ég er svo lítill, – sagði lækurinn, kysti á fótinn á furunni og gerði sig svo blíðan sem honum var unt. Þá varð furan hálfhvumsa við og lofaði honum að fara. En björkin rýmdi til fyrir honum án þess hann bæði hana. – Hæ, hæ, hæ, – sagði lækurinn og belgdist upp. – Ho, ho, ho, – hló lækurinn hæðnislega og slengdi öllu um koll, lynginu, eininum, furunni og björkinni, og þau botnveltust niður brekkurnar. En í mörg hundruð ár á eftir var fjallið hróðugt af þessu og hugsaði um, hve laglega það hefði brosað í kampinn þennan dag. Það var svo sem auðséð: fjallið kærði sig ekkert um, að þau klæddu það. En lynginu varð gramt í geði og það grænkaði að nýju og þá fór það aftur af stað. – Áfram, – sagði lyngið.
Einirinn hafði risið upp á olnbogann til þess að horfa á eftir lynginu; svo reis hann upp á hækjur sínar og horfði, og ekki vissi hann fyr af en hann stóð alveg uppréttur. Hann klóraði sér í höfðinu, fór af stað og beit sig svo fast niður í fjallið, að hann hugsaði, að það hlyti að finna til. – Þó þú viljir ekki, þá vil ég!
Furan fór að hreyfa tærnar til þess að vita, hvort þær væru ekki brotnar; svo lyfti hún upp öðrum fætinum og sá, að hann var heill; svo hinum, hann var líka heill, og þá hélt hún af stað. Fyrst gætti hún að, hvar hún hafði áður gengið, síðan hvar hún hafði oltið um koll, og loks, hvar hún átti að fara. Svo þrammaði hún áfram og lét sem hún hafði aldrei dottið.
Björkin hafði skitið sig alla út; nú reis hún upp og fór í ný föt. Og nú var haldið áfram, altaf á fleygiferð, upp eftir og til hliðanna, hvort sólskin var eða regn.
-Hvað á alt þetta að þýða? – sagði fjallið, þegar sumarsólin stafaði geislum sínum niður á það. En daggardroparnir glitruðu, fuglarnir sungu, skógarmúsin tísti, hérinn hoppaði og hreysikötturinn ýlfraði í skógarliminu.
En nú var runninn upp sá dagur, að lyngið skyldi skjóta kollinum upp yfir fjallsbrúnina. – O, nei, nei, nei! – sagði lyngið og – hvarf upp af brúninni. – Hvað skyldi það geta verið, sem lyngið sér? – sagði einirinn og klifraði þangað til hann gat gægst upp. – O, nei, nei! – kallaði hann og hvarf á svipstundu. – Hvað er það, sem á gengur fyrir eininum í dag – sagði furan og stikaði langan, þótt heitt væri sólskinið. Hún gat tylt sér á tá og gægðist upp. – O-o, nei, nei! – Hver grein og hver angi á furunni reis við, svo mikið fanst henni um. – Hvað getur það verið, sem þau sjá öll nema ég? – sagði björkin, kipti upp um sig pelsinum og trítlaði á eftir. Alt í einu rak hún höfuðið upp yfir brúnina. – Ó – hó! – hér er þá kominn þéttur skógur, furur, lyng, einir og birki – og bíður eftir oss – sagði björkin. Og blöðin skulfu í sólskininu, svo daggardroparnir tvístruðust í allar áttir. – Já, þetta er nú kallað að komast áfram, – sagði einirinn.“
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Þannig hljóðar hin snildarlega lýsing Björnsons á þögulu starfi náttúrunnar. En hann gæðir hana eins og þið sjáið mannsmáli, mannlegum vilja og tilfinningum. Og þannig starfar náttúran í kyrþey um aldaraðir sitt með hverjum hætti sitt í hverju landinu og byggir upp, ef hún fær að vera óáreitt af hinum eyðandi öflum sjálfrar sín, manna og dýra. Maðurinn getur unnið á móti hinni skapandi náttúru, en hann getur líka unnið með henni, og þá gengur alt miklu greiðara, þegar mannvit og fyrirhyggja er með.
Hér er það nú mosinn, lyngið, fjalldrapinn, einirinn og birkikjarrið, er smámsaman getur klætt brekkurnar, hlíðarnar og fjöllin. Og þótt furan þrífist ekki hér, er ekki útséð um, hvað sem hver segir, að við getum fengið vænt og viðamikið skógartré eins og t.d. kanadíska grenið – Spruce kalla þeir það þar vestra – til þess að reka lestina.
Það undraði mig mest, þegar ég var þar vestra og komst alla leið vestur í Klettafjöll, þar sem Stephan G. Stephanson býr, að sjá heilar hersveitir af trjátegund þessari klífa upp snarbrött og að því er virtist blánakin fjöllin upp í 2000 metra hæð – á hæð við Öræfajökul – undir sömu jafnhitalínum og liggja hér yfir Ísland. Þá vaknaði fyrst hjá mér von um það, að unt væri að klæða land vort skógartrjám.
Ef við nú, eins og ég hefi stungið upp á við annað tækifæri, fengjum fræ af trjátegund þessari vestan úr Klettafjöllum, þar sem líkt hagar til og hér, er ég ekki viss um nema sumir ykkar hinna yngri og yngstu manna, sem hér eruð staddir, lifi það að sjá land vort klæðast skógi. Og þá rætist hugsjón Klettafjallaskáldsins, þar sem hann kveður um „úrvænislandið“ sitt, Ísland:
Langt úti’ í heimi’ á ég höfuðból
— í hillingum sá ég það blána —
í alls-nægta landinu austan við sól,
í áttina vestur að mána.
Úr dyrunum fjöllin mín fögru ég sé
og fljótið með gljúfrum og runni,
og þar spretta réttvaxin, reisuleg tré
og rósir í hlaðbrekkunni.
Ennfremur það, sem hann segir í kvæði sínu „Hirðinginn“:
Í nesi inni’ við ána
ég á mér húsa-skjól,
þar skógarbrekkur blána
í bug um eyrar-tána
og greni girtan hól.
Það hús er hægra í vöfum
en höll við bæjar-torg.
Við veggi hlaðið höfum
úr höggnum grenistöfum,
sem barns-hönd leggja-borg.
Í glufur mosa gnúð inn,
mér gluggar lýsa tveir,
og kalki brædd er búðin
úr bjarka-næfrum súðin
og þekjan lag af leir.
Svona byggja þeir vestra bjálkahúsin sín og svona gætum við bygt líka, þegar grenið væri komið. Þá fengjum við nægan húsbyggingavið og – eldivið. Og eitthvað yrði landið þá vistlegra en það er nú.
Þið, sem þekkið Norðurárdalinn og skógarleifarnar víðs vegar um Borgarfjörð, þið vitið, hvað getur vaxið hér, og þið vitið, hvað skóginum getur farið fram á einum tuttugu árum, ef vel er með hann farið.
Verði farið með land þetta eins og vera ber, verður „úrvænislandið“ brátt – í þrem til fimm kynslóðum – að veruleika. Þá verður Ísland aftur „viði vaxið“ milli fjalls og fjöru.
Ef þá þar á ofan verður búið að þurrka og rækta alt mýrlendið, sem nú er hér víðsvegar sem lítilsvirt og lítt numið land, þá verður ekki amalegt að eiga hér heima. Nú búa 43 þúsundir manna á liðlega 23 þús. hektörum af ræktuðu landi. Eina millión hektara af auðræktanlegu landi eigum við enn eftir í mýrunum. Þá ætti hátt á aðra millión manna að geta lifað á því, þegar það er komið í góða rækt. Og þá hættum við að brenna sauðataðinu, áburðinum, en fáum okkur hita og ljós úr vatnsorkunni, sem víðast er fyrir hendi, eða úr eldsneyti því, sem við þá fáum með hæfilegri grisjan skóganna. Og þá verður ekki amalegt að búa á landi hér.
Hér er því nóg að starfa og nægilegt landrými. En það ætti að verða ein aðalhugsjón vor í framtíðinni að klæða landið, bæta það og fegra. En þá verðum við að hætta að beita skóginn, að minnsta kosti um stund. Ef við förum þannig að, þá rætast áður en varir orð skáldsins Jónasar:
Fagur er dalur og fyllist skógi
og frjálsir menn, þegar aldir renna –
En ef við höldum áfram að rýja landið eins og við höfum gjört hingað til, þá blæs það upp og verður að síðustu að óbyggilegum eyðihólma.
Mýrarækt, sauðgræðsla og skógrækt það eru einhver helstu velferðarmál vor og komandi kynslóða og – eins og Stephan G. Stephanson hefir einnig sagt:
Og víst er ekki gert fyrir gýg
að græða út ættland sitt.
__
Nú fer ég að hætta. En mig langar til að segja ykkur frá ofurlitlu einkamáli, áður en ég slæ botninn í.
Þið kannist öll við frásögnina um Abraham og sonarfórnina. Mælt er, að Guð hafi boðið Abraham að fórna honum syni sínum Ísak. Þetta mundi okkur nú þykja bæði óguðlegt og ómannúðlegt. Og þó fórnum við börnum okkar dagsdaglega, ekki til þess að deyja, heldur til þess að lifa örðugu og útlátasömu lífi. En við mundum telja okkur sæl, ef við vissum, að við fórnuðum lífi sjálfra okkar og þeirra til blessunar landi og lýð.
Ég er einn hinna fjölmörgu manna hér í landi, sem hefi ákveðið að gjalda sonarfórn. Það er pilturinn, sem ég gat um áðan. Ég fór með honum þessa ferð, sem ég nefndi, til þess að sýna honum öll ólífssárin, sem land þetta hefir verið slegið svo að segja frá landnámstíð, í þeirri von að hann gæti grætt eitthvert þeirra og jafnframt til þess að sýna honum, hvernig skógur getur þróast inni í óbygðum þessa lands. Hann hefir sem sé afráðið að leggja stund á sandgræðslu og skógrækt og þá mun ykkur skiljast, hversvegna mér er nú þetta mál svo hugleikið.
En jafnframt vil ég, að þið ungmennin, sem sækið þetta mót og eigið þennan skóg, sýnið áhuga á þessu máli. Setjið ykkur hvert um sig, piltur jafnt og stúlka, að gróðursetja þótt ekki sé nema eitt tré eða tvö á heimilum ykkar. Gróðursetjið ættarmeiði um leið og þið reisið bú og bæ.
Bætum í skörðin, ef þeir vilja visna eða kelur, eina hríslu með barni hverju, sem ykkur fæðist síðarmeir; látið þau gera slíkt hið sama. Þá munuð þið sjá, að skógarlundunum fjölgar smám saman í kringum býlin og bæina. Og þá mun ekki öllu ósélegra verða þar en t.d. í Múlakoti nú. En þið Ungmennafélagar, stofnið til allsherjar Trjáræktardags (arbor-day) á vori hverju líkt og Ameríkumenn hafa gert eftir að þeir voru búnir að eyða skóginum; og gefist ekki upp, þótt treglega gangi í fyrstu, á meðan þið eruð að læra af reynslunni.
En það vildi ég, að bændur þeir, sem eiga skóglendi eða búa í skóglendi, yrðu svo hygnir að hlífa skógunum sínum með því að girða þá með skynsamlegum hætti, svo að skógarnir gætu vaxið, en sjálfir þeir með tíð og tíma fengið alt í senn upp úr þeim, sumarbeit handa búsmalanum, eldivið í stóna og þó síhækkandi skóga. Þá gætu menn aftur farið að hafa í seljum, í skógarseljum. En hvort sem þið nú verðið þessu máli hlynnt eða ekki, bið ég ykkur öll að óska þess nú með mér, að Ísland megi blessast og blómgast.
ÁHB
Leitarorð: Ágúst H. Bjarnason prófessor • Ungmennafélagsmót • þórsmörk • Þrastarskógur
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