Hákon Bjarnason á Grana sínum.
Hákon Bjarnason:
Útdráttur úr dagbók 1936
Þann 11. júní vorum við eftirtaldir staddir á Þórsmörk: Árni Einarsson í Múlakoti, Skúli Skúlason ritstjóri, Einar G. E. Sæmundsen [Einar yngri] og ég. Þá voru þar og Einar E. Sæmundsen og nokkrir verkamenn.
Við Árni höfðum bollalagt að gaman væri að fara syðri Landmannaleið upp úr Þórsmörk og annaðhvort austur í Skaftártungu, sömu leið og Flosi fór að austan til Njálsbrennu eða fara Kaldaklof og beint í Laugar og spara sér langan krók eins og Árni taldi æskilegast.
Var það hugmyndin, þegar við fjórir lögðum upp í þessa ferð um klukkan 10 þennan morgun í blíðskaparveðri. Vorum við með eina 12-14 hesta; tveir undir töskum, frekar léttum. Höfðum þó nokkuð af höfrum með og vistir til tveggja daga.
Fyrsta torfæran, Emstruá, var straumhörð og grýtt í botn með háum bökkum beggja vegna. Var ekki nema í kvið. Síðan var riðið upp með jökli [Entujökli] um nokkurt skeið. Þá kom í ljós, að svo mikill snjór var í Kaldaklofi að við tókum þann kostinn að ríða austur Mælifellssand. Hann var mjög greiðfær og miðaði okkur vel, en drjúg var leiðin og hross fóru að slípast. Þeim voru gefnir hafrar, en hestar Árna kunnu ekki átið.
Skammt frá Mælifelli ákváðum við að reyna að komast norður í Kýlinga austanhalt við Torfajökul. Sveigðum því í norður að enda Hólmsárbotna, en þar fannst enginn hagi svo snemma á sumri. Vorum því heldur daprir hrossanna vegna, því að þetta var orðin miklu lengri leið en ráð var fyrir gert. En við sáum reyk frá Strútslaug og fundum þar lítið eitt af grængresi á hitasvæðinu. Þar voru þrjár útigangsskjátur, sem höfðu kroppað mest af grasinu. Hrossin voru þó fegin og þarna vorum við frá klukkan fimm til sex um kvöldið.
Nú tók að kólna og blikur sáust á himni en veður ekki hvasst. Síðan þræddum við okkur upp eftir Muggudölum og héldum okkur ofarlega eða efst á öllum bungum til að þurfa ekki að krækja fyrir gil. Héldum svona áfram í eina tvo tíma og komum þá fram á brattar brekkur og hengiflug. Þá fór að hríða og byrgði snjókoma alla útsýn um stund. Mun það hafa verið um klukkan 10 um kvöldið, þegar við réðumst til niðurgöngu eftir að hafa kannað brattann. Einu sinni rofaði til í nokkrar mínútur og þá þóttist Skúli kenna Herðubreið í fjarska, sem og var rétt, og vissum við þá að við vorum í suðri frá Jökuldölum.
Við klöngruðumst niður brattann, þó að erfitt væri fyrir sum hrossin, sem voru ekki ferðavön, en okkar gömlu og vönu ferðahestar fóru hægt og varlega.
Þegar niður kom var úr vöndu að ráða. Við vorum staddir í kvos eða dalverpi fullu af hálfblautri fönn, sem varla hélt hestum og undir henni miðri rann lækur í nokkrum kvíslum. Yfir fönnina voru á annað hundrað metrar að fara. Við tróðum slóð og teymdum hestana yfir með varúð en klyfjar drógum við yfir á olíugöllunum. Héðan var svo leiðin greið ofan í Jökuldali. Þar var enginn hagi, en aðeins nál í Kýlingum.
Hér er verið að teyma hesta yfir fönn. Myndin er ekki úr þeirri ferð, sem hér er sagt frá. Ljósm. HB.
Nú birti af nýjum degi og varð glaðasólskin alla leið í Laugar, en þangað var komið um klukkan fjögur að nóttu og þar var gras eins og í túni eins og hásumar væri.
Við fórum í bað og svo steikti Skúli nautaket frá Tómasi [Kjötbúð Tómasar] á pönnu, sem átti að vera afbragðsgott, en Skúli fékk viðurnefnið »Tyggegummikongens Overmand«.
Síðan var lagst til svefns á bálkanum í leitarmannakofanum. Skúli hafði með sér vindsæng undir svefnpokann. Hann vildi ekki óhreinka dýrgripinn, sem þá fékkst ekki hér á landi, og dró undir sig bárujárn, sneri plötunni þó öfugt, þannig að gaddar úr naglagatinu stungu gat á sængina og vindurinn fór úr henni eins og þegar menn leysa vind. Varð hann að láta sér nægja harðan bálkinn eins og við.
12. júní. Fagur dagur og riðið að Galtalæk. Gistum við hjá Finnboga [Kristóferssyni, f. 1884]. Miðleiðis gaf ég Krumma nærri heilt smjörstykki af nestisafgangi. Árni rak upp stór augu, hafði aldrei séð dekrað svo við hest.
13. júní. Frá Galtalæk fórum við um Skarfanes. Finnbogi [Höskuldsson, f. 1870]. reið með okkur yfir á Gaukshöfðavaði, sem ég fór oftar eftir þetta. Það er gott vað en djúpt. Síðan riðum við heim að Ásólfsstöðum og þar endaði ferðin, mikil ferð og skemmtileg.
Eftirmáli
Á árunum 1930-1942 ferðaðist faðir minn, Hákon Bjarnason, nær eingöngu á hestum um landið. Munu fáir eða engir hafa farið þá jafnvíða um landið ríðandi, að Þorvaldi Thoroddsen undanskildum. Hákon átti oft marga hesta sjálfur og svo munu nokkrir hafa fylgt embætti skógræktarstjóra, þegar hann tók við því 1935.
Það var lengi ætlun föður míns að skrifa ítarlega um þessa ferð, sem lengi var í minnum höfð, en af því varð þó aldrei. Hér birtist greinin eins og sagt er frá henni í dagbókinni. Að vísu hef eg sett inn skýringar í hornklofa og meðal annars bætt við föðurnöfnum bænda á Galtalæk og í Skarfanesi, sem báðir hétu Finnbogi og iðulega er ruglað saman.
Í bréfi Hákonar til Skúla Skúlasonar 20. apríl 1969, þar sem ferðin er rifjuð upp, segir svo:
„Sakar þó ekki að rifja upp hestanöfn. Frá mér Grani og Krummi; frá Einari eldra Sæm. Örn, Gammur og Smyrill. Frá Árna í Múlakoti 2 eða 3, þar af einn rauður og traustur, og að auki kunna að hafa verið tvær truntur. Svo minnir mig að við hefðum haft einn vindóttan og glófextan, mjög traustan hest.“
ÁHB / 13. júlí 2014
Leitarorð: Emstruá • Galtalækur • Gammur • Grani • Hákon Bjarnason • Jökuldalir • Kaldaklof • Kýlingar • landmannalaugar • Landmannaleið • Laugar • Skarfanes • skúli skúlason ritstjóri • Smyrill • útigangsskjátur • þórsmörk
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